Have you ever wanted to view the traffic on a link without forcing it to half-duplex with a hub or spending an exorbitant amount of money on a aggregating tap? A cheap DIY passive tap may be your answer.
Before we get into the build lets explore the types of network taps and their pros and cons.
Although most of the switches I own and work with are capable of mirroring ports I wanted to be able to see all traffic passing over a link and be able to insert a tap at any point rather than only at a switch. Initially I looked for a guide to building a passive tap but found most of them overly complicated or ugly and fragile. Some were even wired so poorly that in practice they would have taken down the link they were connected to.
In the end I decided to come up with my own. The goal of this project is to create a functional, compact tap sturdy enough to be tossed in a bag and doesn’t look like a mess of wires. Knowing that I would need four RJ45 jacks I started by looking for small enclosures that could house four keystone jacks, I didn’t find many and those that I did weren’t quite what I wanted. While browsing Monoprice I came across a two port surface mount box with built in RJ45 jacks and wondered how difficult it would be to attach two of them together to create a cube with four jacks. Since they were only a few dollars each I decided to purchase a couple to see if they would fit the bill. To my gratification they worked out better than expected. Enough with the background, lets build one!
Parts
Tools
The Build
1. Remove the screw from the top of the wall mount boxes and set the tops aside.
2. Unscrew the circuit board from each box.
3. Hold the boxes back to back with the openings for the jacks facing in opposite directions. (I chose to make the boxes face away from each other, you can have them facing the same direction if you would like.) On each side, put the tip of a marker through the hole closest to the jack openings, making sure that it marks the back of the other box.
4. Use the drill to make a hole where you made the marks.
5. Secure the boxes together using the bolts and nuts.
6. Drill a hole through one of the blank areas to the left or right. This hole will be used to pass the receive and transmit wire pairs into the adjoining box, you may need to make it slightly larger than the previous holes.
7. Screw the circuit board back on to one side of the tap. Use one of the covers to give yourself a stable base.
8. Remove the casing from the length of Cat5 cable, don’t untwist the pairs. The wires will be punched down as follows:
| Box 1 | Box 2 | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wire | Passthrough 1 | Passthrough 2 | Host Tap | Switch Tap |
| 1 | green-white | green-white | ||
| 2 | green | green | ||
| 3 | orange-white | orange-white | green-white | orange-white |
| 4 | blue | blue | ||
| 5 | blue-white | blue-white | ||
| 6 | orange | orange | green | orange |
| 7 | brown-white | brown-white | ||
| 8 | brown | brown | ||
9.Punch down the wires for the two passthrough ports according to the table above, wire numbers are marked on the circuit board. Try to untwist the pairs as little as possible while punching them down, otherwise interference may be introduced. Don’t trim or cut off one side of the green and orange pairs, these will be used to wire in the tap ports. I recommend punching down the green and orange pair last.
10. Double check that everything is wired properly, then unscrew the circuit board from the box. Feed the excess green and orange wires through the hole drilled earlier.
11. Screw the circuit board back on as well as the cover.
12. Turn the box over and screw in the other circuit board.
13. Punch down the orange and red pairs according to the table from step 8. The orange pair will transmit the data being sent from the switch, the green pairs will transmit the data sent from the host device. (This doesn’t apply if you are connecting the cables between two host devices.) I recommend that you keep track of which port is connected to which so you can label them when finshed.
14. Double check the wires are in the correct places and screw the cover on. Label each side as either passthrough or tap (the ports that are fully connected are the passthrough ports, the ports with only two wires connected are the tap ports), optionally you can also label the tap ports as switch or host as discussed in step 13.

You should now have a complete passive network tap! Connect it between a couple devices and try it out with Wireshark or your packet capture tool of choice. If you don’t see any packets check your cabling and the wiring inside the tap.
I hope that this article was helpful. Questions, feedback, and improvements are welcome in the comments. I’m also interested in how you intended to use your new tap.
Next time I’ll discuss how to combine two packet capture files (hint: mergecap) and show how *nix users can bond interfaces together so that merging the files is not necessary.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any affect this tap has on your network. A properly wired and connected tap can’t affect the monitored devices, but an improperly wired tap could be devastating. Always test the tap in a non-production environment.
I just built one of these and it works great, for the most part. I’m using it to monitor total bandwidth usage on our network, so it’s a permanent installation between the router and modem. The only trouble is occasionally it completely kills the connection to the modem. The moment I reboot the PC connected to the tap, connectivity is restored. I understand the idea of a passive tap was that it’s impossible to interfere with the network, so what have I done wrong?
hi , I success to build a tap .It is work .Thank you for your help . if I want to combine host tap and switch tap to a both packets port .Are you any comment?